Day 6 Trujillo to Guadalupe (82km)

A short ride on the busy EX208 as far as the turn off for Madroñera confirmed the soundness of the advice we'd been given - not to follow the main road route through Zorita. In contrast, the rural route via Madroñera, Garciaz and Berzocana to Cañamero was great cycling on very quiet roads. (The road from Madroñera to Garciaz is not marked on the 1:200000 map but is shown on the Michelin map.) The road seems to seek out the highest point en route to Garciaz, with the downhill gradients much better than some of the steep sections on the ascent. As we approached Berzocana about 20 eagles circled overhead against the dramatic backdrop of the Sierra de Sancho.

From Cañamero, the main road to Guadalupe was quiet. We arrived in time for a late lunch at the Hostal Cerezo and then explored the town. It had been busy when we arrived but now the tour buses had departed and the numerous shops selling religious memorabilia were empty. We took a tour of the monastery and its multiple museums - Goya, El Greco, Rubens,…,ancient manuscripts, incredible embroidery and the ornate monastery interior. You have to take a guided tour and the dialogue is in Spanish - we got the gist of the 10 minute introduction which was 'don't take any photographs or something dreadful will happen.' After that we were content to examine the labels on the exhibits. For those wanting to soak up the atmosphere of the monastery, the adjacent Hospederia would be a good place to stay. It is difficult to say what will remain in the memory longer - the impressive treasures of the monastery or the overwhelming tourist tat of the trinket shops. Behind the main tourist areas, Guadalupe has some charming streets.

Day 7 Guadalupe to La Nava de Ricomalillo (56km)

This was a good ride with almost no traffic through the dramatic scenery of Villuercas and on to Puerto de San Vicente, where we would leave Extremadura for Castilla la Mancha. Even our only encounter with rain could not spoil it. Thankfully the heavy rain lasted only until late morning. As we climbed towards Puerto de San Vicente we passed the remains of a railway tunnel on the line we would follow the next day on the via Verde de la Jara. The climb was frustrating, with the gentle gradient of the old road visible from the steep incline of the new road. Behind us we could see the dramatic scenery of the Villuercas. Once over the top the gentle slopes led quickly to La Nava de Ricomalillo. There are two hostals and we checked into the Hostal Villa Maria. Good food can be had at the restaurant opposite.

Day 8 La Nava de Ricomalillo to Talavera (56km)

We retraced our route for 4km southwards to join the via Verde de la Jara. We had deliberately planned a fairly easy day as we didn't know what sort of condition the track would be in. What we found was that the surface was good - generally as good as many of the roads we had been on, although only about two thirds the width of the original track ballast surface. Some of the tunnels had lights powered from solar panels but not all were working so a torch is useful. From the point at which we joined the via verde to the viaduct over the Azutan was particularly impressive, with a real sense of remoteness. Deer grazed close to the track and there was abundant birdlife.

The railway line was originally part of an ambitious and unfinished project intended to shorten the route between Madrid and Badajoz in southern Extremadura. Work on the section that includes what is now the via verde commenced in 1930 and extended from near Calera y Chozas to Puerto de San Vicente. The via Verde incorporates most of what remains, including 50kms of well surfaced track, 6 viaducts, 18 tunnels and various derelict station buildings. A second section of the route was to run from Puerto de San Vicente to Logrosán via Guadalupe and a final third section from Logrosán to Villanueva de la Serena, east of Badajoz. Work on all three sections was under way around 1930. Major problems, including the intervention of the civil war and landslips around Guadalupe, meant that only the final section was ever completed. The construction of viaducts, tunnels and stations was undertaken on all sections but in 1962, a ministerial order declared the project abandoned. The third section ran for a short while until 1964 and the track was dismantled in the mid 1990's.

There are over 7000km of disused railway lines being converted for recreational use and many of them are in remote areas. Information on all of the via Verdes can be found at http://www.ffe.es/viasverdes/programme.htm.

At the CM4101 we headed for Talavera, a town that seems to be struggling to regain its heritage from the effects of twentieth century over-development. We stayed at the Hotel Ebora and ate at a nearby sea food bar/restaurant.

Day 9 Talavera to Illescas (by train) then Chinchon (61km)

We'd read about Chinchon and thought it would be an interesting place to visit for our final night before returning to Madrid. We started with a ride to Talavera station and caught the 0900 Regionale train to Illescas. Although there was a bike sign on the final carriage it was just a normal compartment and there was only room for two bikes. From Illescas we headed for Esquivias, getting off the busy CM4010 as soon as possible. Then south along a quiet road to Borox and then west along the CM4001. The ferry over the river Tajo is reached via a rough track immediately after the right hand bend that follows the 31km road sign. After the noise and bustle of Talavera, Illescas, Esquivias and Borox all looked like pleasant places to stay.


We cycled through Aranjuez, busy with weekend visitors and a large market, following the tree-lined avenue that starts the M305 to Chinchon. (A useful short-cut would have been to simply walk/ride to the other side of the Royal Palace rather than follow the roads.) Although not too busy, the ride to Chinchon was tiring in the heat and gradually uphill all the way. We checked in to the Hotel La Cerca, which sits in the area above the main square. The Plaza Major and the rest of the old town are well preserved and Chinchon was also busy with weekend visitors and a wedding party. From our vantage point on one of the many restaurant balconies overlooking the square, we had a leisurely late lunch and watched events unfold. The 'square' is round and constructed to convert readily to a bull ring. No bulls but there were several donkeys giving rides and a Superpooperscooperman who followed on behind. A good lunch ended with a complimentary glass of anise, the local spirit. Chinchon has a definite charm. Although busy and touristed, it provided a very pleasant way to spend a warm weekend afternoon.

Day 10 Chinchon to Arunjuez (23km) and Madrid

Next day we had the benefit of the downhill ride to Aranjuez from where we again enjoyed a problem-free experience of Cercanias train to Madrid and then Metro to Barajas and the airport.