Day 4 Ciudad Rodrigo to Hoyos (60km)

The quiet C526 climbs slowly from Ciudad Rodrigo to the border with Extremadura at Puerto de Perales. There are even quieter alternatives leading to other parts of the Sierra de Gata and all look like good cycling albeit with a few more ups and downs. After Villasrubias the area became more forested with pine and oak and a notable increase in the amount of birdsong. Just after the Puerto de Perales we stopped for a bite to eat and decided to ‘phone our intended destination. Our preference had been to head for the mountain villages of Acebo or Gata but accommodations were closed. We descended to Hoyos and the very satisfactory Hostal El Redoble in time for a great lunch. Hoyos was for a long period the summer see of the Bishops of Coria. Their legacy is a number of impressive fifteenth and sixteenth century mansions complete with Romanesque arches and heraldic shields.

Craftwork is a feature of the areas of Sierra de Gata and Las Hurdes. Lace and crochet work are found in Acebo and Trevejo. Wrought iron and gold work in Gata, carving of volcanic lava in Aldehuela and El Gasco. Woodworking ranges from the famed castanets of La Fragosa and Cereza, to wood carvings, chairs and wooden flutes. The continuing tradition is evident in the modern furniture production workshops as well as rye straw hats and basketry as you travel through the area.

Day 5 Hoyos to Vegas de Coria (61km + 30km)

An ominous weather forecast led to a change in our plans. The original plan had been to spend extra days in the Sierra de Gata and Las Hurdes. Extensive thunderstorms were forecast over several days and we felt it prudent to give ourselves more time for the return to Ávila. In some ways this was disappointing but on reflection the area justifies more time so we will return. This was easy cycling along the quiet EX204 and EX205 in the last of the fine weather. The short cut to the EX204 just after Hernán Pérez was particularly pleasant. Our intended destination was Casares de las Hurdes but we’d had a late start due to the owner of the Hoyos hotel taking the keys to the ‘bike shed’ home. Risk missing lunch by climbing up to Casares de las Hurdes or stay in Vegas de Coria? No contest! Lunch at the restaurant adjoining the Hotel Los Angeles was terrific with the local specialties of lomos (cured pork tenderloin) and pitarra wine particularly memorable.

Las Hurdes was made famous by the film director Luis Buñuel in his 1933 film Las Hurdes (or Land without Bread). Described as a surrealist documentary, the film depicts the lifestyle of peasants eking a living out of a very hostile environment. After lunch, a ride up the valley to El Gasco, through the villages of Martilandran and La Fragosa, revealed some of the history of the area and emphasized the remoteness. Disused cultivation terraces built directly on scree slopes are still visible and old stone roofed circular dwellings. There were also a lot of goats, another local culinary specialty.

Day 6 Vegas de Coria to Candelario (60km)

We left Vegas de Coria in rain, the weather forecast proving accurate. We stopped at the Hostal Riomalo in Riomalo de Abajo for breakfast. On the basis of the breakfast and the welcome it looked like a good place to stay. A steady climb to Sotoserrano was followed by a descent to our third crossing of the river Abajo. A long ascent of about 400m to Colmenar de Montemayor was followed by gentle cycling through Horcajo de Montemayor (Hostal) and Valdehijaderos. We joined the SA515 which climbed over a hill into Béjar and a further climb took us to Candelario. Our objective had been the Hostal Cristi where we had stayed before. Along with a number of other hotels it was not yet open for the season – if it was going to open. Mid-week on a rainy day in April Candelario resembled a ghost town. Fortunately the Hotel La Fuente was open and a good place to stay.

Day 7 Candelario to Hoyos del Espino (70km)

Still raining, we headed for Navacarros and the C500 to El Barco. We would be retracing the route from an earlier tour. Finding the road to Navacarros involves getting to the highest point in Candelario, most easily achieved by keeping the main square on your left and looking for occasional signs as you followed surfaced roads (rather than cobbled) most of the way. Once on the C500 we flew along to El Barco, getting colder and colder in the rain and low temperature. From El Barco the C500 took us gently upwards all the way to Hoyos del Espino. The rain had eased and the clouds were lifting. Picking accommodation on the reliable basis of where was busy with locals having lunch we stayed at the Hostal JJ and weren’t disappointed.

Day 8 Hoyos del Espino to El Barraco (72km)

Anxious to find roads we had not traveled on before we turned off the C500 at Barajas and headed for San Martin de la Vega del Alberche where we stocked up at the panaderia. (We’d also worked out that this route to Navalmoral would involve less overall climbing.) In good weather this would have been a great route. In the heavy rain we were even colder than the previous day and thought that it was going to snow. Fortunately by the time we crossed the N502 beyond Cepeda de la Mora the rain had stopped. Until Cepeda de la Mora there had been nowhere open to warm up and shelter from the rain. A long descent past the dramatic setting of Navalacruz put us back on the C500. We were in Navalmoral around midday and the lunch preparations at the Hostal looked inviting. However, another 12km would take us to El Barraco and new roads for our return to Ávila.

Before deciding to head for El Barraco we’d looked at the accommodation listing and noticed that there were four places listed. When we attempted to find them we discovered that one was more than 20km to the south on the highway; another was on the highway somewhere to the north and the one we could find was closed. This left rooms behind the El Segoviano bar. The room was basic but the experience and hospitality were wonderful and one of our best experiences.

A small room off the bar was the restaurant and we were served some of the tastiest food imaginable. We lingered over lunch and sampled the meal of the day which was a delicious bean dish followed by some form of mixed grill. While we lingered others finished and tables were prepared. In three cases tables were set for individual regulars who duly appeared. Presumably they came in every day but they didn’t speak to one another. In each case no one discussed the menu they just waited for the food to arrive and of course weren’t disappointed. If I lived nearby, I’d go in every day and just take what I was given.

In the evening the restaurant was closed. We sat in the bar having a beer and were asked if we’d like something to eat. So there we were, at an impromptu dining table amid the regulars enjoying more good food and warm hospitality. We’ll be back!

Day 9 El Barraco to Ávila (40km)

We’d wanted to avoid having a long final day to Ávila and from El Barraco it is a fine route via El Harradon and the Puerto del Boquerón. Unfortunately it was still raining. (The road leaving El Barraco to the east does not appear on the Geo/Estel map). We could see much of this route from the train the next day. To get to El Harradon involves a choice of traveling via one or other of the two villages that nestle on opposing slopes of the valley. These are Santa Cruz de Pinares (less climbing) or San Bartolomé de Pinares. The latter is the location of a festival celebrating St Anthony, patron saint of animals, where horses are ridden through fire. Popular with photographers for dramatic photos (try a web search). Less popular with those concerned with animal welfare.

From the Puerto del Boquerón, it is downhill to Ávila. We chose El Rastro for a great lunch.