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Day 1 Ávila to La Cabeza de Béjar (112km)
We had wanted to book somewhere for our first and last nights so that we could deposit things like bike packing materials rather than carry them with us. Our first choice, the El Rastro where we had stayed before, wasn’t available. We stayed at the Hosteria Bracamonte in the old town, which was fine and well placed for finding the road out of Ávila.
By turning left on leaving the walled town by the Puerta del Mariscal gate near the Bracamonte, crossing the river and turning right, then left onto the AV110 then AV111 lead to Cabezas del Villar. This was pleasant cycling along a quiet road amid prosperous agriculture. Left at the junction with the C610 and thunderstorms seemed all around us. We spent a couple of hours in a bus shelter at San Miguel de Serrezuela watching the roads turn to rivers.
The best cycling followed after the junction with the C510 where we went via Aldealabad, El Mirón and Gallegos de Solmiron before heading south to join the busy SA101. Then west through Puente del Congosto with its fortified bridge and impressive looking castle. This bridge was part of an important cattle trade route and tolls provided income to the castle.
Just beyond Santibáñez de Béjar a right turn leads to La Cabeza to Béjar. The Hostal is a few kilometers further on the old road that lies to the west alongside the new N630. A former petrol station, it was an unusual place with construction vehicles parked overnight, a man proudly cleaning a Ferrari and an (empty in April) Olympic size swimming pool out back. And a pack of guard dogs.
When planning our trip we aimed to get to the more interesting areas as quickly as possible. This was the only accommodation that was available, the preferred alternative in Guijuelo being full. We’d booked it in advance but other than the first and last nights, didn’t book anything else in advance.
The thunder storms had turned this into a long day. Had we had more time, we’d probably have stopped to take a look at El Miron – an ancient settlement nestling in a rocky outcrop. At one time it was the administrative centre for a collection of villages.
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Day 2 La Cabeza de Béjar to La Alberca (51km)
Our ideal is to get up early (having paid the night before), get cycling, stop somewhere for breakfast and arrive somewhere around early/mid afternoon for a great lunch. This, like most of the days that followed, met the ideal and avoids cycling in the worst heat of the day.
Clear skies promised a great day and we headed via Fuentes de Béjar and Valdelacasa to Cristobal. There was a queue waiting for the panaderia to open and we carried on rather than wait. We’d been moving quite quickly on the gradual downhill. From here to Puentes del Alagon we moved even quicker descending about 400metres in a few kilometers.
We followed the C512 climbing gently before turning off below Miranda del Castañar and continuing the climb through Mogarraz and on to La Alberca. We had entered the parque natural Las Batuecas – Sierra de Francia and the villages all displayed fine examples of the traditional Sierra de Francia architecture. Timber frames infilled with stones and then coated to form the walls. Invariably, images and symbols can be seen carved on the lintels of the doorways.
La Alberca was the first rural village in Spain to be given National Historic Heritage status. This means that it is a popular tourist destination and is probably best avoided at busier times of the year, but a visit in April was worthwhile. A visit to the Natural Park visitor centre on the outskirts of the village was also interesting.
We stayed at the pleasant Hostal El Castillo where we also had a good lunch. It was a quiet location with good views from the balcony. In the evening we had tapas at a bar in the back streets of the town, also good.
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Day 3 La Alberca to Ciudad Rodrigo (61km)
From the map it was clear that the best route to Ciudad Rodrigo would involve a climb of about 400m over the Puerto de los lobos. If we were feeling really keen we could climb another 223m to the monastery at Peña de Francia. Alternative routes are possible but look far less interesting.
The good weather was continuing and we were soon climbing through the forested slopes below Peña de Francia. The reward was some great views and a long descent to Monsagro, with its circular terraces cut into the hillside below the village.
From Serrandilla del Aroyo signs direct you to Ciudad Rodrigo but an even quieter route can be found by following the road left towards Serrandilla del Llano and turn right at the top of the hill. Continuing descent gets you close to Ciudad Rodrigo.
We’d read of a hosteria in the main square of Ciudad Rodrigo but felt it was too close to the noise of the square for our tastes. We decided to look around at some of the other accommodation we’d noted before our trip. In the quiet Plaza de San Salvadore was the Hotel Conde Rodrigo and it was perfect. An excellent lunch was followed by a look around the interesting town. You can walk most of the way around the medieval city walls and there are plenty of buildings to admire. The cathedral is notable for the façade on one of its entrances and some interesting carved work dating from 1498 on the choir stalls. Both the Hotel and Ciudad Rodrigo we’d gladly return to.
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