Day 5 Plasencia to Navalmoral de la Mata (60km)
The bad weather continued, forcing a change to our plans. The intended route for the next few days had been to travel south to Trujillo, then east over quiet roads to Guadalupe after which we would travel north on the Via Verde de la Jara before heading east towards Madrid. This was impossible in the conditions. A long climb out of Plasencia gave good reason to stock up on excellent pastries at the panaderia in Malpartida from where we joined the EX108. On a good day the ride would have been pleasant, but strong cross winds and driving rain made it fairly miserable. Again the day was saved by a great lunch, this time at the Hotel Mayo in Navalmorel. In the afternoon we visited an internet café to research the accommodation options and further plan our revised route. Just plugging the names of possible towns and villages into the accommodation section of www.tourspain.es delivered the information we needed.

Day 6 Navalmoral to El Puente del Arzobispo (60km)
For the third day running we set off in rain. On the EX118, we lurched from one roadside petrol station to the next, having a coffee or admiring the waterfalls spilling off the man-made structures. The Roman ruins got a quick sideways glance as we crossed the Rio Tajo where it is the Embalse de Valdecanas. Turning left onto the EX387 we soon had improved weather and a great ride through ancient vine plantations. Quiet roads led all the way to El Puente del Arzobispo and the Hostale Navas. Another good lunch soon followed at the local bar/restaurant.

El Puente del Arzobispo has a beautiful setting on the banks of the Rio Tajo. The local clay provides the basis for a long established ceramics industry. Nearby Talavera is perhaps more famous and well known for its mass-produced ceramics. El Puente del Arzobispo makes claims to be more supportive of a commitment to preserve traditional style and quality with the production of hand thrown, hand painted and individually signed items. Almost every family seems to have a tiny factory, the Hostale Navas included. Ceramics are everywhere! I'd never had a room with ceramic lightshades before nor seen such a stylish frontage to a dry cleaners shop!

Day 7 El Puente del Arzobispo to Los Navalmorales (76km)
Heading south, it was a steady climb to La Estrella where we fix a puncture and have a coffee while contemplating the framed signed photo of ex Chelsea footballer, Frank le Boef, behind the bar. Apparently he married a local girl. Then it is left on the road to Fuentes after which we cross the Via Verde de la Jara that we had originally planned to use. It looked a great route but after all the rain we were glad to be on proper roads. Information on all of the via Verdes can be found at www.ffe.es/viasverdes/programme.htm. There are over 7000km of disused railway lines being converted for recreational use and many of them are in remote areas. Recently finished routes may not appear on maps so a visit to the web site is well worth it when planning a trip. The site is in Spanish so the Alta Vista or Google translation tools are useful.

The CM4171 took us through Buenasbodas all the way to Los Navalmorales. This is one of those roads shown on the Michelin map with a green line ('scenic') and red dots ('difficult or dangerous section of road'). It didn't disappoint. The road surface wasn't wonderful, particularly around Espinosa del Rey and a fast pace would be difficult anywhere along its length. But with no traffic and good scenery it is well worth a visit. It was just what we needed after the days in bad weather. As the traffic free road wound its way through ancient olive forest, we watched deer with young grazing peacefully. We just made it to Navalmorales in time for another late great lunch, this time at the Hostal Capitol.

Day 8 Los Navalmorales to Toledo (78km)
The CM401 was quiet and pleasant and we were soon at the panaderia in Navahermosa. The CM403 led us to Menasalbas. Outside the town were brown piles of a by product of the local industry. Just as in Puente del Arzobispo, almost every family seemed to have a stake in the local industry, only instead of ceramics, it was cattle feed lots. Lot upon lot surrounded the town creating a very distinctive environment. In looking for the panaderia we found the old centre of the town. This was attractive and not what was expected from the approach through the feed lots. After Cuerva, the CM4013 led us into Toledo. It was interesting to see Toledo but quite difficult to adjust to such a busy place. We stayed at the peaceful and well-located Hostal del Cardenal which lies just within the city walls alongside the main entrance.

Day 9 Toledo to Arunjuez (45km) and Madrid
We left Toledo early. It was a Sunday and we wanted to make sure that we got to Madrid early enough to be able to take our bikes on the Metro all the way to the airport (see Madrid airport details). A pleasant ride along the CM4001 took us to Anover del Tajo. Just a couple of kilometers further and there is a 'barcaza' or ferry over the Rio Tajo (shown on the Michelin map). This gives access to a quiet approach to Arunjuez and the railway station. We just walked onto the train with our bikes at Arunjuez station and were delivered to Atocha station in Madrid. From there a short trip on one of the many trains that stop at Nuevos Ministerios connected us with the Metro line to the airport. Simple.