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Saturday 26th May - day one
This year a change of routine as Charles was taking the Nissan 4x4. The starting point for Brian too was to be Greenlaw. Arriving on Friday evening Brian loaded his gear into the jeep and stayed the evening with his in-laws. I took my luggage round to Charles at 6.05am and at 6.30 Charles went to pick up Brian and lastly myself. The three of us set off from Greenlaw at 6.30am for the rendezvous with Keith at Hillend Ski-slope at 7.30am. Keith on time and we loaded his fishing gear in and set off along the Edinburgh City Bypass for this our 12th year visiting Islay. The journey to Inverary was trouble free and fairly quiet traffic wise. The weather was mixed with rain, wind and sunshine. Arriving at Elizabeth and Dougie Barrs’ we had our usual breakfast and blether – made very welcome as always. We left our good friends just after 11am on made the dash to Kennacraig in good time arriving at 12.20pm for the 1pm sailing. There was some confusion here as the traffic coming off the ferry gridlocked with some of us arriving! The ferrymen soon though had this cleared and we were onboard just after 1pm. Our sail was fairly good although there was a bit of a wave in the windy conditions especially when we arrived at Port Askaig at 3pm. We were soon off the boat and driving up the steep road out of the little village and on to Bowmore and the McDonald’s who were there to welcome us back to the cottage in the High Street. We quickly unpacked and gave our fishing gear the first of many “sort outs” for the week. Soon we were in the jeep as we had decided on an early meal and a wee look around to see what fishing may be possible. Unfortunately the wind and rain persisted so the decision was taken after checking out various lochs to come back to the cottage and an early night and a chance of being refreshed the following morning. The wind and rain settled down about 9.15pm – encouraging!
Postscript – Good close up views of Hen Harrier today. Also had a brief call from Dodo who was checking to see how we all were. Hopefully he would catch up with us later in the week which coincided with the Music and Whisky festival. With this attraction the Island was very full with visitors.
Sunday 27th May – day two
For me an early start today as I misread the time and started making breakfast at 5pm!! The result of this early morning activity was that the cottage breakfasted at 6.30am and we were ready to go fishing at 7.30. The previous night we had decided on a trip to the neighbouring Isle of Jura and we headed off to catch the first ferry across the Sound at 8.30am. Once on Jura we drove around the southern tip of the Island and headed off road to park in the now partially cut down plantation before starting the climb up to Loch A Bhaile Mhargaidh – “The Market Loch”. This is a good climb for 40 minutes and then a walk of about a mile to the far end of the Loch in this classic hanging valley. With the strong wind direction as it was from the west we all headed up the Loch to start fishing. We stopped for lunch of steak and fresh caught trout and after a short rest fished on until 4pm when we started the walk and much quicker decent back down to the jeep. With time to spare before the last ferry home to Islay we visited Craighouse and the Jura Hotel where we enjoyed a lovely pint in the garden in much calmer and sunnier conditions from that of the hill loch. Finishing our drinks we set off for Feolin and the ferry connection at 6.10pm. Arriving on Islay we made for our old favourite the Ballygrant Inn for a supper and a blether with David and Ruby to catch up on the news from last year. Suitable fed we left some Jura trout and headed off to Loch Gorm to check on conditions for the following day. We found the loch a bit coloured up and with the wind still creating a bit of a wave we would need to check again in the morning if fishing was going to be possible on Gorm. We reached the cottage in Bowmore High Street at 9.30pm to retire as it had been a long but most enjoyable day.
Postscript – Weather today had been generally cloudy, very windy with some showers in the late evening. We had 21 trout between 12oz and 1lb and returned 6 lovely dark trout with big red spots to a loch which has some good sized fish. Best flies today were Kate McLaren, Black snatcher with gold tag, Coch-y-bondu and Black Palmer with green tag. Floating lines were the order of the day with fish taking a good cast out and just under the surface. Birds seen today included Hen Harrier (2), Ring Ouzel (2), Cuckoo, Stonechats, Rock Pippets and Ringed Plover.
Monday 28th May – day three
We had a later start today and breakfasted at 8.30am leaving the cottage at 9.45am. Our planned destination for today was to be Loch Gorm but it was decided that the loch would be unfishable due to the high wind. We drove round to have a look at Loch Skerrols but here too the wind would make fishing difficult even although this delightful place is mostly tree lined. We set off to see Jack Adamson at Islay Estates who lets out the fishing on these lochs. Jack told us that the boats on Gorm had been pulled ashore due to the recent windy conditions. Jack also mentioned that the cold spell in early May had also affected the fishing on Gorm. We were given the green light just to set off and if we found somewhere suitable just to fish this would be fine and we would let him know later in the week. With this advice from Jack we set off in a southerly direction which was to take us to the Oa peninsula. We planned to fish a new loch which was accessed down a rough track but was manageable with the jeep. The lochs were called Glenastle and Lower Glenastle. These were adjoining lochs connected by a short narrow stream. We only caught nine mainly small but golden 7’’ trout although one would have went to 12oz. They were all in good fighting condition. The lower loch was by far the most productive. Having lunch at the ruined cottage on the side of Glenastle Loch we were treated to the sight of a pair of choughs. The seemed to enjoy the ruins of the cottage and the green undulating land around the lochs. The Oa is an RSPB reserve and the Choughs are one of the stars of this interesting place on Islay. Leaving these delightful birds we made the short trip to Loch Kinnabus a loch we visited once a number of years ago. By this time though the wind on the loch had reached gale force lying high up and open as it does on the Oa. We did cast a line on the loch but only for a brief spell giving up after an hour or so. In that time we did manage to pick up a dozen or so small fish in one of the quieter small bays although one went to 12oz. Wind beaten we got back into the shelter of the jeep and drove back to the cottage for a quick change before calling into the Lochside for tea. After eating we retired to the cottage to spend the rest of the evening contemplating the days activity and what would lie ahead tomorrow. The wind eased off at about 9.30pm and with plans to visit Loch Ballygrant tomorrow spirits were lifted.
Postscript – the weather had played a major part in what we were able to achieve today. Wind from the north-west and cool. All fish returned to the water today. Successful flies were Kate Mclaren, JJ Olive and Doobry. Floating lines (little success with intermediates). Birds today – Hen Harrier, Reed Bunting, Choughs and Stonechat.
Tuesday 29th May – day four
Late start for the second day running with breakfast again at 8.30am leaving cottage at 9.30am and on to Ballygrant. Loch Ballygrant our destination for the day. We stopped enroute at Bridgend stores for provisions. Arriving at the Kennels and before making for the loch and the boats we met Donald James. His comments were the same as those of Jack Adamson yesterday with the cold and windy weather affecting the fishing to date. Donald James wished us “tight lines” and we headed down to the boathouse. This was going to be a hard day as it was very bright sunshine and a very cold, strong, north wind even here at Ballygrant which is tree lined. This proved to be the case and with the fishing being difficult we stopped for lunch reasonably early and had our barbeque. Over lunch we chatted about the morning’s fishing. None of us had really found the answer and we decided to change to intermediate and sink tip lines to see if this would make the difference. As it turned out we saw little change from the morning when we had used floating lines. After the afternoon session we finished with 5 trout of around 12oz with one going to 1lb and 15 smaller fish returned to the loch. Brian and I saw the otter today and also an eagle which was soaring very high up. Both sightings just a brief glimpse but a very welcome sight nonetheless. We left the loch about 7.30pm and returned to the cottage. Tonight Charles cooked the venison he had brought from Greenlaw which we all enjoyed along with a good dram of Laphroigh 10 year old. A very pleasant whisky it was too! The wind settled down outside at about 9.45pm and we watched a beautiful sunset over Loch Indall. At least the wind had kept the midges at bay today!
Postscript – Flies today were Invicta, Black & Silver, Conamara Black, JJ Olive, Gold Head with floating and intermediate lines. Birds seen to day were cuckoo and eagle. Highlight of course was the wonderful otter.
Wednesday 30th May – day five
Late breakfast again - this is becoming a habit! We woke to bright sunshine and a much lighter wind although still a slightly cool edge. Today we had decided to visit one of our favourite lochs – Finlaggan. Arriving on the Lochside the wind was stronger here than we had experienced in Bowmore. A good breeze though on Finlaggan does not deter the fish and as usual we found the fishing good. Although mainly bright we had a short spell of cloud cover and this was the best period and the trout were well and truly on. We fished through until the middle of the afternoon and went to the Ballygrant Inn for an early meal before setting off for Loch Ardnahoe. Arriving at Ardnahoe at 6.30pm this coincided with the appearance of some heavy clouds and we only had a few hours fishing before the rain arrived. It turned heavy and the mist came in from the surrounding hills. With conditions deteriorating we made back to the jeep and quickly packed the gear away making back to the cottage at 10pm – so ended our first late evening fishing session of the week. Back at Bowmore there had been little rain. This is quite typical on Islay with rain very localized. Today’s fishing had been mixed with Finlaggan good and Ardnahoe made difficult in the wet and breezy conditions. Between Finlaggan and Ardnahoe we had called in on Donald Fletcher at the Persabus Pottery to hand in some of the trout caught that day. Donald was his usual friendly self and invited us back if time permitted later in the week.
Postscript – Finlaggan trout total 100+! of all sizes. We kept 12 lovely golden trout for Donald averaging about 12oz. Today’s flies were anything black with a touch of red, Red Tag, Clan Chief, Blue Zulu and Black Spider. Our lines were floating. At Ardnahoe we landed no large trout this year returning 8 of between 1lb and 12oz. Brian lost one at the net estimated about 2lb 8oz. Flies here were Blue Zulu, Black Zulu and Ace of Spades with floating and intermediate lines. Birds seen Hen Harrier and Golden Eagle (at distance).
Thursday 31st May – day six
Breakfast served at 8am today and looking out of the window over Loch Indaal the weather was overcast and the wind seemed strong. Outside though it was not so cold and we decided on a hill walk to Drolsay. This is a true hill loch situated beyond Loch Cam in the peat hags and boulders of North Islay. Strangely though it is a fairly shallow loch and is about a 30 minute walk from the vehicle parked on the side of Loch Cam. When we arrived a few fish were rising to a darkish olive. We had seen these dark olives on all the lochs we had fished this week but the cold wind had been keeping the trout down. I fished Drolsay until about 2pm leaving Brian and Charles to fish on as they were taking fish on the olives at the shallow top end. Keith headed off further into the hills intending to fish loch Leathan but in the event ended back at Cam. I walked directly over to cam to have a brief cast here before returning to the jeep. Drolsay proved to be an enjoyable challenge and we ended up with 13 fish most between 12oz and 1lb keeping three. Cam was as we have found in the past a bit dour. I did pick up 2 trout between 6oz and 12oz. Really have no explanation as to why it does not fish as there are good weed beds here and also perch. Indeed we caught a perch some years back whilst on Cam. May need to be here on a good fishing day to check it out and spend more time on this sizeable water. All back at the vehicle by 4.30pm we headed to the hotel for tea and after a few drinks an early night so to be fresh for our last fishing day. Hopefully it would be good for fishing.
Postscript – Drolsay flies were Black CDC (looked like the olives) Black Snatcher and Blue Zulu. On Cam a Black Snatcher and Bibio seemed to attract what little interest there was. Birds seen today included Hen Harrier (both male and female together), Peregrine Falcon and the usual small moorland birds mainly pipits.
Friday 1st June – day seven
Breakfast again at 8am and set off at 9.15am this time for Loch Gorm. We stopped on the way at Bridgend Stores again for provisions as we planned to stay on the loch til late being our last fishing day. Weather seemed to match the forecast – slight wind, overcast in the morning and clearing by midday to leave bright sunshine conditions. We started fishing at 11am and fished the western area until 3pm when we drew the boats into the reeds and had lunch. By this time the sun was very warm and the trout had stopped taking. With conditions as they were we just sat on the bank and took in all that was Islay and chatted over our plans for 2007! We may give Islay a rest as thing were just getting a bit familiar and perhaps a new island and challenge would be appropriate. On reflection I don’t think any of us really believed we would not return next year. At 5pm we launched the boats back into Gorm. Even now it was still very bright with a stronger wind blowing out of the west. By 10pm though it was cooler and the fishing had been mixed and patchy throughout the day. The morning had been fairly good with trout taking off the top when we had cloud cover. Later though the fishing was more difficult in the bright sunshine improving again about 6.30pm when for about a couple of hours when they were taking back on the top. After that until sunset about 10pm it was just the odd trout which showed up. Gorm had been a bit dour today but still extremely enjoyable although we all got a bit sunburnt. We saw an otter at the large island and we think there may have been a family in the undergrowth. This is the first time in all our Islay years we have spotted an otter on Gorm. A ram spend all of today stuck on a rock fairly well out in the skerries. It was unable to take the decision and route off its solitary perch. That is until the end of the day when Keith and I gave it a helping hand with one of the oars. Without our help it would have continued to just turn round and round on the rock and I expect would not have survived. Brian took a picture of the poor beast and its predicament – we have posted it on our website. Last day and a late night not getting to bed until 1am as we had some whisky to finish off!
Postscript – Fishing today was good at times but mostly difficult. Tactics were floating and intermediate lines. We caught 45 trout and missed many more most though were quite small. Of those we kept a dozen – two were about a pound and the rest 12oz – lovely golden trout from the Loch Gorm sand. Flies today were Claret Hopper, Green Peter, Zulu, Black CDC and Claret Bumble.
Saturday 2nd June - day of return – day eight
Last day on Islay and we were up at 7.30am. Another change to our routine this year as our sailing to Kennacraig was not until 3.30 and from Port Askaig. The island is so busy and the earlier ferry from Port Ellen fully booked. We had little choice but to await the later ferry – what a shame!! The weather today was really good with just a breath of wind and so warm. We tidied up the cottage and packed up the vehicle as we had to vacate the cottage by 10.30am. For breakfast we just had bacon rolls as all the supplies Charles had very kindly brought with him were exhausted. We said our goodbyes to Alistair and Isobel and thanked them for the use of the cottage yet again. It really is a great place and base. We then went shopping in Bowmore to take some things home to remind us of our 2006 Islay stay. After this we delivered the Gorm trout from yesterday to the Pottery. Finally we set off for lovely Port Charlotte and the Croft Kitchen for lunch. We spend a while here and after an excellent lunch had a stroll down to the little beach and a seat in the rocks overlooking Loch Indaal and Bowmore at the other side. Port Charlotte and the Croft Kitchen really is a lovely place to visit. It was now time to set off for Port Askaig and on arriving with time to spare we sat on the quayside taking in the view of the Sound and the Paps of Jura. We boarded the ferry on time and arrived at Kennacraig at 5.25pm. The sail was one of the best we have experienced and with the weather so warm many people were sitting out on the open deck for the whole journey. Leaving Kennacraig we had an uneventful journey home stopping only to change drivers at Luss on Loch Lomond. At Hillend Ski Slope we met Margaret and Caroline who had arrived to take home Brian and Keith respectively. Charles and I continued the journey back to Greenlaw arriving in the village at 10pm. Another Islay fishing adventure had concluded without any dramas which we are all grateful for. A big thank you to all who assisted us and tight lines to all you fishermen who take up the challenge and enjoy the experience of Islay trout fishing.
Postscript – Highlights of the week were the very early breakfast on day one! , saving the ram and seeing the beautiful Hen Harrier and otter. The weather especially the cold north winds at the beginning of the week and then the warm bright sunny conditions at the end of the week dictated the fishing. This apart everything else was as good as ever. We saw a great deal of wonderful wildlife than we had in past years – maybe just paying more attention! We caught trout at every venue and had no rain to contend with so all in all a good week on Islay
Jimmy Campbell – The Borders Fisherman