Working
Area
I use the dinning table with layers of newspaper
and a small sheet of wood to protected it from cutting
implements and spilt paint etc.. This is not ideal
but it is the only place where a can get a reasonable
amount of space, sit in comfort and have daylight.
The best solution is somewhere out of the way of
the rest of the family where things can be left
to dry, sometimes over night, without being disturbed.
You need a flat working surface, the bigger the
better, and good lighting. Day light is the best
as some colours look different under artificial
light. Balanced against this is the fact that you
models will mostly be viewed in artificial light
so I don't worry to much about this and use an angle
poised lamp for my main light source. A fishing
tackle type box with many compartments should provide
a safe place to keep all your equipment in.
Find a small low box or tin to stand paints etc.
in while you use them. One day you are bound to
knock one over and this will contain the spill.
Have a large box of tissues or paper towels handy
as well! If you have a coffee or other drink while
you are working be sure to use a distinctive cup,
otherwise you will find yourself cleaning your paintbrush
in it. It doesn't improve the taste!
Modeling and painting is recommended to help you
relax in this busy world, but remember it involves
working with sharp blades, glues that bond skin,
substances that can cause skin irritations, liquids
that can splash in your eyes, dust that can affect
the lungs and family who don't understand, so read
all the warnings on the packets, take care and tidy
up when you've finished for the day.
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Tools
The following will provide a more than adequate
basic toolkit and should not cost much. A lot of
the items you may already have around the home:
- A knife. I use a Stanley type knife with a heavy
duty blade for most work as I find them stronger
than most hobby knives but a hobby knife with
interchangeable blades can have its uses for getting
into difficult areas. Change the blade frequently
because if you try to use a blunt edge you will
apply more pressure in your effort to make it
cut which will make it more prone to braking and
causing you an injury.
- A few needle or Swiss files - flat, half round
and circular to start off with.
- Fine grain sandpaper will be the most often
used but there may be occations when a courser
one is needed.
- A razor saw - this is a very thin bladed saw
- get one with a metal handle as it will be stronger
and less likely to bend than the cheaper plastic
handled ones. A hacksaw can be used for cutting
thicker metal figures but the width of the saw
blade will lose a lot of detail. Like knives don't
go overboard with the pressure if its not cutting
as quick as you think it should. Saw blades break
and make nasty cuts.
- A small finger trist drill with various diameter
drill bits of around 1mm.
- Glues : Superglue and remover, epoxy glue, Woodworking
white PVA glue, liquid and tube plastic cement.
- Paints, primer and a selection of brushes.
- Milliput, plasticine, self drying clay or other
filler.
- Tweezers, paper clips, dressmaking pins, compass,
rubber bands, clothes pegs, sticky tape, toothpicks,
scissors, wire cutters and anything you find that
can be adapted to make things easier to do.
- Steel ruler and set square, pencils, compass
and dividers. for measuring and marking out materials
that need cutting. the steel ruler is so that
you can use to guide your knife without damaging
it.
- Magnifying glass
- Pyrogravure - to model plastics. Its like a
small electric soldering iron with a needle tip.
The voltage can be adjusted to control the heat.
You then scribe details into plastics, the heat
melts the plastic and aids the modeling. Very
good for hair but needs practise.
Alternatively take an old paint brush, cut the
hairs off. Cut the top off a pin and push the
shaft into the metal furel of the paintbrush.
Super glue if loose. Heat the end over a candle
flame. Its just as effective on a small area.
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Scale
For ease of measuring I use a scale 30 mm = 6'
which gives a basic 5mm = 1'.
Clarecraft don't advertise a scale for their figures
(and may not be to a constant scale - Quoth and
DofR are certainly not to the same scale as the
rest of the figures). Games Workshop originally
made figures to a 25mm scale but over the years
they have grown. Both sets of figures are to an
approximate height of 28/30 mm which allows them
to mix together quite well.
There used to be a standard wargame figure size
of 1/58 which used 30 mm as the basic height of
a figure. Now Wargame figure manufacturers also
confuse matters by measuring the height of figures
in different ways. Some measure to the height of
a figure's eyes and others to the top of the figures
head. With the variety of figure heights it does
give more oportunities of finding a figure that
looks right to base a character on.
Assembly
Examine the figure or parts if it is a kit to ensure
it is all there. It is known for miss-cast figures
to go on sale.
Read any instructions the manufacturers has provided
carefully before starting.
Remove the flash lines with a knife and files/sandpaper.
Flash is the raised line which is evident on all
figures where the moulds were joined for casting
and if not removed will spoil the look of even the
best painted figures. The main one will run vertically
around the figure but there may be others i.e. under
the chin and between limbs. Use a knife to carefully
cut away any large amounts of flash first. Cut off
small pieces at a time rather than try to do it
in one go - you'll break the blade and your skin.
Then use the knife to scrape away the line and finish
with a fine file. Use the files for intricate and
none flat areas. Take care not to damage the surrounding
details. Work over a scrap piece of flat wood and
ALWAYS CUT AWAY FROM YOUR BODY AND FINGERS -YOU'VE
ONLY GOT 10 OF THEM.
If the parts are attached to a sprue cut them off
carefully with a saw, pinchers or sharp blade. You
may find it easier to paint parts while they are
still attached to their sprue as this will give
you something to hold while working on it. Try not
to get paint on any surfaces that will be glued.
Test fit pieces together without gluing first to
ensure they fit correctly using Blue-tac to hold
if necessary. Trim edges with your knife or file
and drill or file to enlarge location holes until
a snug fit is made.
If it is a large model with many pieces follow
the manufacturers instructions, painting any parts
that will be obscured or difficult to get at as
you proceed.
Multi-part figures that are to be gaming pieces
and therefore handled a lot, and large models like
dragons require support to their joints. Use a small
finger drill with a 1mm dia. drill bit to make a
hole in the center of each of the areas to be joined.
Drill as deep as you can without coming out the
other side. Cut a length of wire to fit. Any stiff
wire of approximate 1mm diameter will do. I use
paper clips or dressmaking pins but you can buy
lengths of brass rod from hobby shops if you wish.
Some figures, like Clarecrafts come with bases
attached. These bases often have bits of flash on
them and don't sit flat. Use medium grade sandpaper
to create a flat base by placing onto a flat surface
(a worktop with a few thickness of newspaper to
protect it) and polishing the base smooth with a
light, circular motion. Periodically check the process
until the figure sits flat on the ground.
Resin which is becoming increasingly used for figures
and accessories. It is a hard material but can be
cut and worked as most hard plastics, you just need
a stronger blade and a bit more effort. It can be
glued with super glue or a two-part epoxy but because
of the additional weight you should pin the joints.
The manufacturing process occasionally leaves small
air bubbles or surface marks. Fill any bubble holes,
caused by air trapped in the mould, with Milliput.
When the putty is dry clean it up any surface marks
with a knife or sandpaper. When cutting and sanding
these items a fine dust is produced which can be
unpleasant. Depending on the size of the seams and
mould marks you may need to use a number of different
grades of sandpaper. Try to use wet-and-dry types
of sandpaper wet to avoid filling the air with dust.
This will keep your work area cleaner and reduces
the risk of inhaling the harmful dust particles.
If you are doing a large sanding or cutting job
work outside if you can. Resin items need to be
washed with a detergent and stiff bristled brush
to remove the moulding release fluid before being
primed and painted. Resin can bend if subjected
to heat. If this happens to a part warm the area
with a hair drier and bend back into shape. Either
hold it in place until it cools and sets or dip
into a handy bowl of iced water.
Vinyl kits are of a bigger scale than this but
a couple of tips for them. Parts like legs benefit
from internal support which can be done by filling
the interior with plaster or expanding foam. The
excess of foam can be cut away when set. Glue parts
together with super glue. If you heat one half of
the join with a hair drier first it will become
soft and conform to the shape of the colder half
of the join reducing gaps and the need for filler.
Soft pastic figures, like those made by Airfix,
are a pain to clean up because the plastic thens
to fray, for want of a better word. Flash can only
be removed with a very sharp blade, any other method
leaves a very rough finish to the surface. Even
when you have managed to clean them paint refuses
to stick. Wash in washing up liquid and when dry
coat fully in thinned PVA glue. Once painted, as
aany other type of figure try not to handle as the
plastic will bend and your paint will peel off.
What ever medium you are using remember to clean
up your working area when you've finished.
Gluing
Super glue (cyanoacrylate adhesive) is suitable
for joining most metal based figures but may require
a small amount of filling to the joint when dry.
As well as the liquid there is a gel type that takes
a little longer to set. This is easier to apply
to difficult spots as it doesn't run away like the
liguid glue and also give you time to repossition
joints to get a perfect match. Don't forget to buy
a tube of Superglue remover as well. Hospitals are
not amused at having to remove figures from fingers.
A two part epoxy glue can also be used with metal
figures. It will fill any gaps in the joint itself
and will need to be filed down when dry. I myself
don't like this type of glue because it needs to
be mixed exacty in the right proportions to get
it to set correctly and I don't think the join is
as strong as super glue. (This may just be the way
I use it.)
There are an increasing number of plastic figures
in this scale for which there are tube and liquid
type cements available. Cement must be used with
care as it works by dissolving the plastic to weld
the joint together. If you get any on other parts
of your figure it can dissolve and spoil the surface.
The liquid cement is reckoned to be the best to
use and is brushed along the line of the join. It
then works its way into the joint by capillary action.
PVA, White glue, woodworks glue, school glue. all
names for the same material. A basic glue that will
stick various substances. Best for paper, card,
foamboard and all woods. Add to decorating fillers
like Polyfilla to give extra strength and then to
stick in the many types of landscaping texturing
itemswhen creating bases. It drys clear.
If pinning a join glue the pin/wire into one part
and let the glue dry. Test fit and make any necessary
adjustments to the position of the hole in the other
part before finally gluing the two parts together.
Parts need to be supported while the glue dries.
If you don't want to hold them use rubber bands,
tape, clothes pegs etc. to keep them together. Small
parts should be held in tweezers and glue applied
with a toothpick, especially if using super glue.
It is advisable to leave all joints to dry overnight.
If the figure is to be a gaming piece, i.e. it
will be on its own base, glue it on now. If it is
to be part of a diorama it can wait until it is
painted although you may find it easier to work
on if you put it on a temporary base.
Leave shields and
weapons, etc off and paint them separately adding
them to the finished figure later. You will also
be able to paint those parts that would not be accessable
if the sheilds were in place. Carefully remove a
little paint on the areas where your shield or weapon
contact the figure so that you get a good bond.
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Fillers
When the figure is dry most joints need a small
amount of filling. I use milliput or plasticine.
Modern plasticine never goes hard and should not
be used for modeling details but is adequate for
filling very small gaps if varnished over before
painting.
Milliput is a two part product that has
to be mixed together in equal quantities before
use. To get the best from it continue to mix for
at least a minute after it has become a uniformed
colour. Apply it to the join with a narrow bladed
screw driver, compass point or toothpick and push
well into the gap. Before it dries it can be worked
with the applicators or pins and toothpicks to sculpt
the required shape and so mask the join. Dipping
your tools in water can help to make a smooth finish.
Unlike a number of model fillers it does not shrink
as it dries. Once set Milliput can be sanded, drilled
and cut.
There are other fillers that can be used. Squadron
Green Stuff is used by many plastic modelers as
it contains a solvent which helps it bond with plastic.
I have known normal car fillers and the gel type
super glue to be used but have not used them myself.
Leave joints to dry overnight.
When dry paint the join with a light coat of paint
primer. This will show any blemishes still in the
joint area which you can cut, file or sand to the
correct shape.
When the figure is finished it should be primed
before being painted.
Some epoxy puttys and similar fillers may cause
skin irritation. If they do wash your hands before
and during work to keep your model clean and to
reduce any irritating effects.
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Priming
If the figure contains any plastic parts wash it
in warm, soapy water to remove the grease put on
by the manufacturer to release it from the moulds
and any transferred from your fingers when handling
it.
Use a primer suitable for the paints you intend
to use. Apply a light coat with a brush or if you
have a lot to do use a spray can. White is best
as it provides a good under coat for light colours
and will show up any flash lines or imperfections
you may have missed. A black primer is also useful
for large areas of metal, i.e. Knights in armour.
Some painters only use black as a primer as they
feel it gives deeper shading to a figure but I find
it dulls bright colours.
If you spray primer do the job outdoors or in a
shed or garage. Put the figure(s) on a small piece
of flat wood and place inside a large cardboard
box resting on its side. The spray of paint will
go everywhere and leave a fine cover on a large
surrounding area even if it is a wind less day.
The box will help contain some of the over spray.
Spray paints must be shaken thoroughly before use.
You can hear the agitator ball in the can moving
around. Follow the instructions on the can and apply
in light coats turning the figure to cover all sides
and top and bottom. Allow a few minutes for each
coat to dry.
Although the paint is white once you have an even
light grey coloured cover your figure is ready for
painting.
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