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Central Asia
For the purposes of this article, Central Asia is taken to mean the ex-Soviet republics of Kazakstan, Uzbekistan, Kyrgyzstan, Turkmenistan and Tajikistan. The republics have been independent since 1991 but they are taking their time in shaking off the shackles of Soviet bureaucracy. This, together with the chaos resulting from the collapse of their economies, means that they are not the easiest of countries to visit. However, if you do decide to go, you'll find several outstanding sights, amazing bazaars and warm hospitality. Despite having their own languages, Russian is still the lingua franca. Very few people speak English so a little Russian will go a long way to smoothing official hurdles. Visas are likely to be the single biggest hassle associated with any trip to this area. Regulations change by the minute and border guards answer to no-one so getting up to date information is crucial. This is not easy but the Lonely Planet Thorn Tree is a good place to start. All of the visas require an invitation, which can be time consuming and costly. Highly recommended in this field is ITMC in Bishkek, Kyrgyzstan (1-A, Molodaia Gvardia St., Bishkek, Kyrgyz Republic, 720010; tel: +996 312 651221, 651404; fax: +996 312 650747; e-mail: itmc@imfiko.bishkek.su) who can arrange invites for all of the countries through their partner companies. Ayana speaks good English and is very helpful. ITMC is also the place to go if you want to tackle one of the many unclimbed peaks in Kyrgyzstan. Kazak, Kyrgyz and Uzbek visas are theoretically valid for three days in either of the other two countries but some guards and policemen feign ignorance of this and try to "fine" you. Police hassle is an everyday occurrence in Kazakstan and Kyrgyzstan, especially in bus and train stations. Do not put up with this - stand your ground and they'll give up. The borders were gerrymandered by Stalin in the twenties. As a result, roads criss-cross borders and there are enclaves of one country in another. In the old days this wasn't an issue but now there are border posts at every criss and every cross, making for a fun time for Mr. Visa Checker. A highly entertaining account of a recent trip to the region can be found in Giles Whittel's "Extreme Continental". Valiant tales of derring-do in the Great Game abound in Peter Hopkirk's books.
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| Oct 98 | |
| Population:
16 million
Size: 2 700 000 sq km Currency: tengge ($1 = 85 tengge) |
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 This is the largest and emptiest of the republics - ideal for
nuclear testing and rocket launches. Almaty, the former capital, is the only
place with anything approaching character but it's Russian character, down to
the onion dome church in Panfilov park. Despite groaning stalls in the market
the restaurant situation is dire - a lot of the places have shut down and the
remaining few serve up overpriced slops. Shaggies is notable only for the name.
Perfectly acceptable accommodation can be found at KIMEP, the management
institute; basic rooms are available in the bus station. Reckon on $30 a day all
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